Can a pretty party dress also make a political statement? Johanna Ortiz thinks so. The well-established Colombian purveyor of ruffled feminine frocks has found increasing success for her statement silhouettes in the American market (statement silhouettes seemingly being the sole area of interest for contemporary shoppers). But that doesn’t make her any less concerned with what’s going on back at home. Ortiz began designing her Spring collection when it looked like Colombia would be ratifying a landmark peace treaty with the FARC rebels that would put an end to a 52-year conflict—one that has claimed the lives of an estimated 260,000 people. But on Sunday, a low number (38 percent) of Colombian voters turned out and the peace deal was narrowly defeated in a referendum in another Brexit-like shock to the system. So, when Ortiz embroiders Give Peace A Chance on the back of one of her military green ruffled tops, it’s not just because it’s cute. She really means it.
Ortiz’s most successful designs have a sort of fête-ready flair: There are wiggle skirts with cascading ruffles, sultry off-the shoulder blouses, and snug lace separates with dramatic sleeves and strategic flounce. (She was, in fact, one of the first to really capitalize on the yen for the off-the-shoulder trend.) All of it makes you want to make a big entrance. None of it was dampened by the political situation. Most of the collection took inspiration from her native Colombia, from its legacy of magical realism to its less fortunate realities. A darker section matched a verdant green with black lace and was inspired by “the light through the trees in the forest,” said Ortiz, pointing out some subtly sequined bird designs. “Or at least it’s how I picture it. We never went into the forests because it wasn’t safe there.” Here’s hoping that changes soon.
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