Never wanting for an arty inspiration, this season Samu-Jussi Koski turned to Oskar Schlemmer’s Triadic Ballet—colloquially known as simply the Bauhaus Ballet. Its costumes lent themselves in particular to Spring’s painterly, geometric prints, but also imbued the season’s lineup with a kind of balletic grace. See: crinkled silk dresses in a lush palette of goldenrod, terra cotta, and cornflower blue that conjured up bucolic summertime pleasures; Koski said he was also mulling the idea of the ultimate Moroccan summer holiday. There was plenty of carefree appeal to pieces in spongy raffia, or a camisole in natural-hued leather, laser-cut to the point of being supple and feather-light. Patterned jersey pieces were poised to be tossed into a weekend bag and forgotten about; ditto a riff on traditional, wrap-front Thai fisherman’s pants.
Samuji offerings continue to be notable for their unfussy, timeless appeal. The woman who covets the label’s clothing will covet it always, and not a piece from the new season would look out of place styled back to an ensemble from years past. New Yorkers can plan to shop Koski’s latest wares in person soon when his forthcoming Nolita shop opens. Spring’s spare sky-blue mohair, silk, and wool wrap coat is an investment buy if ever there was one.
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